What is the difference

First a little story:

Everyone knows how Tibor Klampar changed everything noticing that certain glue is taunting the rubber and distends the molecules making rubber larger and softer giving a specific click to any shot with more speed and spin and more catapult effect and power.

Until now everyone (including officials and specialists) considered that the solvents are responsible for this appreciated effect on rubbers by all players.

This is true! But is not entirely true and is not the only way!

Now, with this new method of gluing, we can reveal to you the real mechanism to obtain the same effect:

A) There are two stretching methods both applied on sponge and rubber by this procedure only MECHANICALLY not CHEMICALLY like boosters, oils or speed glue, that combined are inducing same effect as chemicals:

– each layer of fine glue can be easier controlled to obtain a perfect, self-leveling, uniform and very thin layer of adhesive on rubber. When you dry it you eliminate the water from the adhesive remaining only the natural rubber (the adhesive is based on natural latex). The remained pellicle on rubber is elastic and by drying it will stretch a little bit with effect on sponge and rubber. Each layer will do the same and the effect will cumulate.

Water it will work as VOC (as we know water is a solvent) and sometimes will improve the cavity or water hammer effect so the sound will be different (louder). If it is naturally dried the film will be tough elastic and the precision of the ball trajectory and the sound will be improved.

Depending on the total thickness of your rubber you can use how many layers you want but you take

care to conform to the regulation that 4 mm is the maximum thickness of the rubber(the thickness of the adhesive always –even 6 layers – is not more then 0,1 mm; if it is more the results are decreasing -we will see later on why- the same was with speed glue-graphics available.

2- when you apply the rubber to the blade first by the bottom corners; you fix the bottom around 3 cm without stretching then using a roller you press and fix the rubber on blade. Stretching is not allowed by ITTF regulations. Cut the rubber margins 1-2 mm bigger than the contour of the blade. The best in this process is that you can always repeat the process and obtain the same result. The adherence is strong enough to maintain the rubber stick to the margins of the blade but the secret to obtain a perfect uniform layer of elastic glue is to use a racket press for the night to stick the rubber to the blade as long as the adhesive is drying and perfectly bonding the rubbers to blade.

By regluing with our glue repeating same procedure you will get same result.

B) The CATAPULT EFFECT was always given by the elastic characteristics of the remaining layer of rubber on sponge from the adhesive not only by the chemical effect of speed glue. This layer is practically a Evolution and by our method you can design it softer or harder using different numbers of layers and drying each layer naturally or by hot air. Up to a certain limit of thickness of this elastic layer (around 0,06 mm or maybe 0,08 mm) the elastic layer is a catapult and very important part of the complicated ”sandwich” of blade with a rubber witch is really particular to any racket of any player. In conclusion we give to any player a fine method to create and reproduce, based on specific characteristics of his strokes, the special feeling and mechanical characteristics of his racket in order to achieve best performance always.

BUT there are still some conditions to be respected:

A) Always your racket must have the same weight and center of gravity, so:

– coat your blade to protect it because your hand sweat will weight 5 grams in one year and center of gravity will lower and you lose speed but gain control and dynamic of your strokes will be different (you deform your moves); the adhesive from layers of your blade will not be attacked by water from adhesives you use for gluing the rubbers on blade and your blade will last longer;

– always weight your rubbers, if possible when you choose them in order to have the same weight of the racket and same elastic properties and feeling of the rubbers. The only way to measure and reproduce the same properties is to reproduce the specific gravity of the rubbers you like more. So weight them and choose them based on these criteria. Keep in mind that must not be necessarily the most light or heavy rubbers ,it must be same weight of the rubbers you are feeling that are fitting the best to your style of playing;

– if possible use fresh rubbers for the best results;

– generate and reproduce the gluing process in order to obtain always same result.

B) Choose the right combination of blade with rubbers; keep in mind that the speed and precision of the stroke is given by the impact time: bigger time, bigger control of stroke (you must feel the ball bounding into the blade at powerful shots, so you know that blade is also working for you – otherwise use thinner rubbers or less offensive blades). Never try to have the speediest blade and rubbers; this will never let you to refine and improve your strokes and to obtain best performance.
THE MOST IMPORTANT CHARACTERISTIC OF YOUR RACKET IS DWELL TIME (IMPACT TIME OF BALL WITH RACKET ON YOUR STROKES ) AND THIS GLUE AND METHOD OF GLUING ADJUST AND CONTROL DWELL TIME .Your racket is a very complicated sandwich of different materials and you have to understand how laws of physics are the constrains for its use. Harder sponge of rubbers on forehand will give you better control on shorts and flips and better power on attack, drives and counter spin rallies acting like a hard spring. Softer sponge of rubbers on backhand will give you better control on blocking and counterattacking.

The difference is that Evolution No. 3 is designed to perfectly fit with modern materials and is THE ONLY ELEMENT THAT CAN ADJUST DWELL TIME, BY CONTROLLING THE THICKNESS OF ELASTIC ADHESIVE FILM , ONCE YOU CHOOSED YOUR BLADE AND RUBBERS . It is forming an elastic layer with adapted adherence to sponge and blade, easy to apply with the special sponge, easy to be peeled off without damaging surfaces, easy to control the thickness and weight and adapts the racket to your style of playing. The majority of other glues are having more plastic characteristics not elastic.

More important is the fact that you always can obtain the same performance and you can make your own recipe for success.

You can design the response of your racket by controlling the thickness (determined by how many layers and in what quantity each layer) of your glue. For the perfect response must be 0.05 mm up 0.08 mm. If the thickness is bigger you have less control and also can break the rule of 4 mm total thickness of rubber.

In this range of thickness you have the perfect control, speed and spin or you can design more spin or more speed or control by varying the thickness by number of layers.

Evolution No. 3 is elastic, easy to peel off, easy to use with the special bottle and sponge, not coagulating, resisting to 2 (guaranteed) freeze – thaw cycles up to -15 Degrees Celsius (so no problem for transport).

Evolution No. 3 is no VOC, water based, forming a perfect elastic and thickness controlled film which improves the quality of your play and maintain same mechanical characteristics as long you use it.

Choose the best for yourself!

Thank you and enjoy!